Step-By-Step Guide
For our step-by-step guide we're using a
Core i3 2100 processor, a mini-ITX Asus P8H61-I motherboard, 4GB of memory, a
Blu-ray player and a solid-state drive. All of this will be fitted into
Silverstone's lovely slimline ML03 case.
Part 1: Prepare The Case
Firstly, the case needs to have its top
panels removed, and the standoffs screwed into the relevant holes. The
motherboards I/O shield should also be slotted in at this stage. The
Silverstone Milo ML03 case we chose for this project features a stylish black,
anodised, aluminium fascia, which fits in well with high-end receivers and DVD
players, but it's a lot narrower than a normal case. This means you'll need to
purchase add-in cards with special low-profile brackets. The ML03 may lack the
VFD display and sleek remote receivers of some of the more illustrious
Silverstone chassis, but this model is affordable at just $74 and has decent
enough cooling to accommodate even quad-core chips. The case comes as standard
with no fans, so you'll need to budget in a couple of low-noise 80mm models to
ensure you have enough cooling.
Part 2: Install The CPU
The Core i3 2100 will provide more than
enough grunt for HD video playback and, with Hyper-Threading technology, it can
process four threads at a time. It is also incredibly power-efficient, as
proven by the diminutively specified stock heatsink it's shipped with. An AMD
Llano or a quad-core i5 chip would also be suitable for media PC use, but as
they run hotter and require more effective cooling, they won't run quite as
quietly. In order to install a Socket 1155 cooler you simply unhook the lever
from the socket to release the socket clamp and align the processor with the
slot, taking care not to bend the fragile pins. Close the socket clamp and move
the lever so it holds the chip in place. It's always best to install the CPU,
the memory and the cooler before you fit the assembled motherboard 'module'
into the case.
Part 3: Install The Cooler
The compact nature of the Silverstone ML03
case means that you cannot get away with the oversized tower-shaped heatsinks
now so popular for modern CPUs. We're actually using the Intel stock cooler for
this project, but a much better choice would be the Scythe Big Shuriken. It
operates at near-silence and is around 15°C cooler than the Intel stock
heatsink. It's also small enough to fit in any low-profile HTPC case, the ML03
included. Installation of the cooler must be performed before the motherboard
is installed in the case. As this is true of most high-end coolers, do your
research and buy a suitable CPU cooler first time, because upgrading it at a
later date could be inconvenient. Every cooler has its own installation method,
but the Intel model is arguably one of the easiest - simply line up the four
pillars with the holes in the board and click them down to lock the cooler in
place.
Part 4: Install The Memory
Install the memory by moving the white
clips away from the centre of each slot and pressing the memory sticks in until
they snap back in place. Be sure to check that they're correctly installed in
dual-channel mode, which for Socket 1155 motherboards will mean installing them
in slots two and four. If you plug your memory into slots one and three, you
may not get a successful POST - these slots only come into play when fully
populating the motherboard. Our tiny Asus motherboard only has two slots any
way - but most decent micro-ATX motherboards come with four. We recommend a
minimum of 4GB of RAM for a media PC, which at time of writing can be snapped
up for less than $25. If you plan on using your HTPC for more intensive tasks,
then 8GB is a better bet. Cool running memory is appealing for an HTPC build,
so aim to go for modules that operate at no more than 1,5V
Part 5: Install The PSU
In a normal build, we generally slot in the
motherboard module at this stage, but for tight cases like the Milo ML03, it's
more sensible to screw in the PSU first, so you can properly route the cables.
Silverstone has provided enough relief from the tray that you can route a
number of the cables under the board itself, thereby providing a considerably
neater build. If you're buying from scratch, a modular PSU will make this easy:
we went with the FSP model shown, only because we had it left over from a
previous project and knew it was exceptionally quiet even under load. Route the
cables carefully, taking care to remember where your cards, board and drive
will be when fitted and then lash any superfluous cables together so they can
be tucked away in the corner. Finally, attach the main unit to the chassis
using coarse-threaded PC screws.
