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Buying Guide: Tripods over $225 (Part 1)

6/12/2013 9:07:53 AM

Premium tripods start at around $225, where a whole range of top-quality options await. There’s a bit of everything here, from ultra-light to giant size, but which will make the grade? Let’s find out…

SOME FOLKS THINK they can get by without a tripod. Who needs one when you’ve got super-fast lenses, image stabilization and six million ISO, right? Well, it’s very likely, you do.

If you’ve never owned a tripod, or been put off after struggling with a cheapie, you’re missing out. There’s not need to break the bank, but at the lowest end they’re flimsy, a total pain to use and get wrecked at the slightest bump. A good tripod is a pleasure to use, easy to carry and will last years.

You need a tripod to simply hold the camera precisely in position, in the studio or waiting for the right light in a landscape

You need a tripod to simply hold the camera precisely in position, in the studio or waiting for the right light in a landscape

There’s so much happening when the light gets low and kind of handholding. Not to mention deliberately slowing things down for creative techniques like light painting, that wonderful milky water look with dark ND filters, streaking car lights or fireworks. And just as often, you need a tripod to simply hold the camera precisely in position, in the studio or waiting for the right light in a landscape.

There’s saying about tripods: low cost, sturdy build or light weight – you can have any two out of three. Good tripods usually start around the $150 mark, but spending a bit more, like $225-300, brings carbon-fiber in place of aluminum strength goes up and weight comes down.

There are a few basic design types. The familiar and popular classic style, like most here, in a wide range of sizes. Then some that do clever things with the center column, allowing it to swing down horizontally for close-up work. And there’s the cunning ‘folding traveler’ style where the legs pivot right up and back on themselves, resulting in a much smaller closed length for transport. They’re all represented here.

Last, but certainly not least, don’t forget the head. In some ways, it’s more important than the tripod itself as it’s the head that actually moves the camera and is the part you work with. Heads that come in a kit with the tripod are sometimes not the best, but they all have a universal screw mount so you can buy and fit separately.

How to choose a tripod

Most tripods look similar, and you can’t tell much about quality from the specifications, apart from obvious things like height and weight. Some reviews measure stability by loading the legs to see how much they bend, or by hanging weights off the head to see what it can take, but that doesn’t reflect real use. More important is what they’re like with a normal load. Putting up a tripod should be fast and easy, making a firm and stable platform. Adjustments must be smooth and locks positive. You can’t put numbers on these things, so it’s best to try a quick test.

Most tripods look similar, and you can’t tell much about quality from the specifications, apart from obvious things like height and weight

Most tripods look similar, and you can’t tell much about quality from the specifications, apart from obvious things like height and weight

1.    Set the tripod at full height and hold two of the legs around the top section joint. Apply gentle weight and push one led while pulling the other. The legs will flex and there may be some movement around the platform pivots at the top. Note how much the joints flex.

2.    Some movement and flex is normal, but do this with two or three tripods side by side and you’ll soon get a feel for which are better designed and more robust. Then take each joint and slide 3-4cm of the lower section back into the upper. Try the same flex test, and you should find the legs stiffen – handy when setting up for maximum stability.

3.    Adjust the height, see how different tripods and leg locks compare. Pull up the center column and check it in different positions. Take the tripod down and close it completely. Repeat a few times, see how different models compare for ease and speed.

4.    To check the head, you need a camera, preferable with a long lens. Frame up a few dummy shots and lock it in a position. Reposition it slightly and relock it. Everything should be accurate, smooth and positive.

5.    Test ball heads for nay positioning shift on lock-down. Close-ups are good for this, especially in LiveView. Line up a subject and adjust the friction so that the camera is only just held in position, then lock it down firmly and see if the framing has moved. Do this a few times and see how easily and accurately you can frame a shot exactly.

6.    Drop the head over to put the camera in portrait position and check that the quick-release plate doesn’t twist on the base of the camera. If you have a heavier lens, use that as the extra weight will be more testing.

Features to look out for…

Look out for these features that can turn an average tripod into a versatile and reliable three-legged friend.

Height For a good working position, the camera should be between chest and shoulder height, so you can view comfortably and also see the controls on top. Remember that with a head fitted, the viewfinder will be raised about 15-20cm above the top of the tripod platform.

Leg Sections Three or four leg sections are popular. You get more height with four sections, and they close down shorter, but most of the flex is often in the joints so they can actually be less stable.

Leg Locks Lever locks or twist-collar locks both have their pros and cons. Levers are faster, and it’s easy to see if they’re properly closed or not. Twist-collars are much more robust, self-adjusting for wear and less likely to catch on things.

Lever locks or twist-collar locks both have their pros and cons

Lever locks or twist-collar locks both have their pros and cons

Center Column The center column is a key component, greatly extending the height. Use with care, though, as pushing it up too far reduces stability a lot. Center columns are usually reversible to get right down to ground level. Sometimes they can be tilted or swung down.

Ballast Hook Look for a hook on the bottom of the center column to attach a bag or weight for extra stability.

Monopod Option Sometimes one leg can unscrewed, bolted to the removable center column and used as a monopod. Very useful.

Aluminum Vs. Carbon-Fiber It’s a simple choice between less weight and more cost. In theory, carbon-fiber is better at dampening vibrations.

Minimum Height Extra leg-angle positions allow the legs to be spread wider, getting the tripod right down low, or they can be used to level the tripod on a slope. Sometimes the center column can also be split in two, to get even lower.

Feet Usually the feet on a tripod are rubber, good for most purposes, or sometimes they can be changes for spikes, ideal for grass but not on hard surfaces and will wreck carpets! Best of both is a rubber foot attached to an adjustable screw that turns to reveal a spike underneath. Neat.

Spirit Level A spirit level, and sometime a compass, is always handy, but a spirit level on the head is more useful feature.

Buy Well, Buy Once Cheap tripods are false economy. They wobble, can be frustrating to use and damage easily. One dent in the legs can render them useless. You’d be shelling out again in next to no time.

Get A Good Head The head is very important, it’s the main user-interface, the bit that holds and moves the camera. Heads that come complete with the tripod are often built down to price rather than up to a standard.

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