Display 3D images on a 3DTV
If you already have a suitable graphics
card, an Intel processor with at least Intel HD Graphics 2000 or an A-series
AMD APU, and you happen to own a 3D ready TV, the two can be used together to
experience full stereoscopic 3D at virtually no cost. However, there are one of
two potential pitfalls of which you need to be aware.
First, even an HD ready TV will have a
lower resolution than the best PC monitors. For applications such as gaming,
you might be prepared to sacrifice resolution for size, but it’s something to
consider. Second, you’ll need to buy a cable to connect your TV to the graphics
output connector on your PC. If your Pc has an HDMI connector then a simple
HDMI-to-HDMI cable will do the trick and costs only a couple of pounds.
a
3D ready TV
If, on the other hand, your PC has only a
DVI output, you’ll need a DVI-to-HDMI converter, which costs around $7.5. In
this case, you’ll need to separately route the audio.
Finally, if you’re using an nVidia graphics
card, you’ll need a software product called 3D TV Play, which is in essence a
driver that allows output to a TV rather than a 3D Vision monitor.
Print 3D images
So far, our discussion of 3D has
concentrated purely on monitors and TVs, but what if you want to experience the
third dimension on the printed page? Active- or passive 3D technology doesn’t
translate into print, but the free viewing methods we’ve discussed all lend
themselves to printing.
If you have an anaglyph that you can view
onscreen using those oddly coloured glasses, you can print them in colour and
view them in exactly the same way.
The same applies to side by side viewing,
but here you might like to consider using a cheap stereoscope, such as the
inexpensive Loreo Lite Fold-flat 3D Viewer. This is easier to use when viewing
a printed rather than onscreen image, and means you won’t need to cross your
eyes to view the 3D picture.
the
inexpensive Loreo Lite Fold-flat 3D Viewer
Just print your pair of photos at the
correct size for your stereoscopy and place them side by side. View the images
through the stereoscope for hassle-free 3D.
The other option, which requires no viewing
aid, is to turn your stereo content into a lenticular print that works in the
same way as auto-stereoscopic laptops. Doing this yourself is trickly, but
FujiFilm has launched a useful service for its Real 3D cameras.
Simply upload your prints in .mpo format to
fujifilmreal3d.com and the prints will be with you in week. Prices range from
$6.5for four 3x2.25in mini-prints to $7.5 each for 9x6in shots; delivery is
steep at $7.5 per order. Note, though, that the lenticular printing process is
more fussy than it is for anaglyphs or side-by-side viewing, and you should
take a look at the 3D Print Guide section of the website for guidance,
Generate your own 3D content
The best way to create stereoscopic photos
or movies is to use a 3D camera with two lenses. While professional models are
very expensive, the Fujifilm FinePix Real 3D W3 is a bit cheaper, at around
$330. A much more affordable option is to create your own 3D photos with your
existing digital camera.
The first method couldn’t be simpler: take
one photograph, move the camera 70mm to the right (the distance between your
eyes) and take another. You then have a stereo pair of photographs that you can
turn into an anaglyph or display side by side.
Although 3D software makes a good stab at
converting alignment errors, it’s better to avoid them in the first place,
which is why our second solution is recommended. This method relies on a simple
bit of kit called a slide bracket, which you can build from a few pieces of
chipboard. The only thing you can’t see is the socket on the bottom, which
allows you to fix it to a tripod.
Photographic shops often have boxes full of
bits and pieces for sale at rock-bottom prices; the chances are you’ll be able
to pick up something containing that all important tripod socket. The only
other thing to know is that the inside width of the bracket should be the width
of your camera plus 70mm.
To take your stereo pair, mount your slide
bracket on the tripod and make sure it’s horizontal. Put your camera in the
back left hand corner of the bracket and take a photo. Now slide the camera to
the right until it’s in the back right hand corner and taken with the camera
pointing in exactly the same direction and at the same height.
There are two things of which you should be
wary when using this method, though. First, you should avoid scenes that
contain anything that could move between the two shots and, second, if you’re
going to be creating a colour anaglyph, avoid scenes containing strong red or
blue objects.
Having shot your pairs of photos you need
to process them. StereoPhoto Maker is free from tinyurl.com/r7xqcf. It’s simple
enough to use just load your left and right images, carry out an auto
alignment, then decide how you want to view them.
StereoPhoto
Maker is free from tinyurl.com/r7xqcf.
You can also store your pair of photos as a
single stereo photograph in one of the various 3D file formats, including JPS,
STJ and MPO. Note, though, that due to a quirk in the software, your images
must be displayed side by side before you save them in a stereo file format.
The simple methods we’ve seen for creating
3D still photos won’t work if you want to shoot video footage. For this your
only option is to buy a 3D camcorder. It’s certainly true that you generally
get what you pay for, but you can start out without paying a fortune. Sony’s 3D
Bloggie MHS-FS3, for example, costs less than $150. Panasonic’s vastly superior
SDT750 is more expensive at around $900.
Having taken your 3D footage you can watch
it on a 3DTV or suitably equipped PC. However, if you want to edit your 3D
movie, and perhaps convert it to an anaglyph for posting on YouTube, you’ll
have to make sure you have a video-editing package that can cope with 3D video.
This functionality is becoming available in standard editing packages: CyberLink’s
$75 PowerDirector 10.0 Deluxe is one such example.
