Len accessories
Close-up filters: You don't need a macro lens to get frame-filling shots - adapt a
standard or zoom lens with a close-up filter. Available in a range of filter
threads and strengths, they screw on to the front of your lens and act like a
magnifying glass. A +3 or +4 dioptre is ideal for nature. They can be bought
individually, or in sets, and cost between $16- $32. They degrade image quality
slightly so for best results selecta mid-range aperture in the region of f/5.6
or f/8.
Extension tubes: Auto extension tubes cost more than close-up filters, but they
don't affect optical quality. They are hollow tubes that fit between camera and
lens, reducing the lens’s minimum focusing distance. Auto extension tubes
retain all the camera's automatic functions. They are best used with short
focal lengths, ie a standard 50mm lens. They don’t generate a large working
distance, though, so be prepared to work close to the subject.
Lighting aids
Reflector:
Small, collapsible reflectors are available from the likes of Lastolite, and
are useful for reducing contrast and relieving ugly shadow areas on plants and
flowers. The reflector can be held in position to angle light onto the subject,
while the light's intensity can be altered by moving it closer or further away.
One of the biggest advantages of using a reflector is that you are able to see
its effects instantly and change them if needed.
Flashgun:
Light can be limited when working in close proximity to the subject. Therefore,
a flashgun, or the camera's built-in unit, can be useful when shooting plant
life. Flash will allow a smaller aperture setting to be used in order to
provide more depth-of-field. It will also allow you to select a faster shutter
speed - useful if your subject is being wind-blown. It is often best to shoot
at a reduced output in order to keep results looking natural.
Tripods and alternative camera supports
Tripod: A
good tripod 1 will give you support, stability and guarantee f I \ sharpness.
It will also slow down the picture-taking process, making you think about
composition and viewpoint. A tripod also assists precise focusing, so you can
fine-tune your point of focus. For nature, opt for one that can be positioned
low to the ground. A design lacking a centre column or one that can be
positioned horizontally is a good option. A geared tripod head, like the
Manfrotto 410 Junior, is perfect for close-ups.
Beanbag:
Beanbags offer surprisingly good support for your set-up when placed on the
ground. The bag's filling naturally moulds around the camera and lens, and
absorbs the majority of movement. When shooting at ground level - which nature
photographers do regularly -they provide perfect camera support, being
hassle-free and easy to arrange. Try Wildlife Watching Supplies. A crumpled-up
jumper or a fleece can also be used as a substitute beanbag.
Wimberley Plamp A Wimberley Plamp will open up more opportunities for nature
photography, allowing you to shoot things you wouldn't normally be able to.
Clamp one end of the Plamp to anything from your tripod to a tree branch, and
use the other to grasp your subject - it's the perfect tool for steadying
delicate plants or flowers if you're shooting in windy conditions. At $48 it’s
a great investment that you'll find a number of uses for in the studio or out
on location.
Nature kit Q&A
l struggle to look through the
viewfinder when shooting plants from ground level. What can I do?
Unless you own a camera with a vari-angle
LCD - like the Nikon D5100 or Canon EOS 600D - shooting from low angles can
prove awkward. Rather than having to lie flat on the ground and contortyour
body to peerthrough the viewfinder, buy a right-angle finder. This L-shaped
attachment fits onto the eyepiece, allowing photographers to comfortably
compose images at right angles to the camera's optical axis.
Do you have anytips for maximising
sharpness when shooting flowers?
Firstly, always use a tripod whenever it
is practical to do so. Also, avoid physically depressing the shutter button
as the pressure of your finger can create a small amount of movement.
Instead, trigger the shutter remotely - either using a remote device or your
camera's self-timer facility. Finally, if your camera has a mirror-Lock
facility, use it. By 'locking-up' the camera's reflex mirror prior to taking
pictures, you eliminate the risk of internal vibrations or 'mirror slap'
softening image quality.
I've heard polarisers are useful
for plants too. Is this true?
Yes, it is. When rotated correctly,
polarisers reduce glare and reflections from foliage, petals and shiny fungi.
By using the filter, you can restore natural colour saturation and capture
images with added vibrancy. However, polarisers do have a filter factor of
around two stops, so shutter speed is lengthened as a result of using one. In
good light or still conditions, this won't be a problem, but in low light or
blowy weather, it might be impractical.
How can I avoid getting damp and
grubby when photographing plants?
Wear waterproof clothing to protect your
clothing when kneeling or lying on the ground or invest in a groundsheet.
Consider the Linpix Photography Mat to help keep you clean and dry. Using
garden kneeling pads is another good option.
You should also consider photographer's
shooting gloves like those from Just Ltd (www.cameraclean.co.uk) to protect
fingers and hands from thorns and nettles.
