Ian Jackson has some amazing hardware for
this PC building guide, but he also takes a look at how you can build a rig
that’s almost as powerful for nearly a grand less!
2011 saw the release of some seriously
exciting hardware, one of the most revolutionary of which was the new Sandy
Bridge architecture CPU from Intel. Whether you opt for the locked-down Core i3
or the bonkers unlocked quad-core K-series chips, they seriously upped the ante
in terms of performance, delivering more speed per clock and, for the first
time, really quite respectable integrated Intel graphics. The guinea pig for
today’s build is the most hard-core of all of the Sandy Bridge processors, the
Sandy Bridge E. This chip has no less than six cores under its hood, each of
which is fully unlocked. It also uses its very own socket, which with no fewer
than 2,011 pins is the largest yet released for a home PC.
Whether you’re building a fire-spitting
gaming monster or an office box, the fundamental stages of the building process
are more or less the same. More expensive systems will, of course, have more
components to fit and will therefore take a little longer, but each of the
stages we’re going through today is as relevant for a system costing $750 as it
is for one costing $3,750. If this is your first PC build, the most important
advice we can give you is to take your time, don’t panic if you run into any
snags and finally, if in doubt, consult the experts in our forum
(forum.micromart.co.uk) for assistance!
Step 1: Purchase and check your parts
Before you dive head first into a build,
double-check that all of the parts you require have been ordered and delivered.
With so many separate components to think about, it’s easy to forget something
important! All machines need a processor, motherboard, cooler, case, video card
(unless going integrated), power supply, hard disk, optical drive, memory and
operating system. You should also consider any extras you might need for your
individual build such as cooling fans, adaptors or extension cables. You’ll
also need a screwdriver (Pozidriv or Philips No 1 is ideal), cable ties for
neat cabling, scissors and some thermal paste for the CPU if your cooler does
not come with it pre-applied. An antistatic wrist strap is also advisable if
you have one; if not, remember to ground yourself by touching a metal part of
the PC case or a radiator before picking up sensitive components!
Step 2: Prepare the CPU socket
The next step is to remove each component
from its packaging and carefully place it on a static-free surface. Never place
components on carpet, because even a small discharge can damage delicate
surface components. As you unpack each component, inspect it for signs of
damage. You need to take extra care when checking the CPU socket, as even the
most minor of bents pins will cause irreparable damage to your motherboard,
likely preventing the system from starting up correctly. With large sockets
like 2011, you need to be even more careful, since the pins are more densely
arranged. Prise the protective cover off the socket by using the demarked
ridge. A fingernail will do or you can use a flat-headed screwdriver. With the
socket cover free, it’s time to lift the socket cover. On socket 2011 there are
actually two levers, but on Socket 1155 and older variants there’s only one.
Step 3: install the CPU
Your first step should be to install the
CPU, RAM and cooler to your motherboard. This is much easier when not confined
by the interior of the PC case and also makes it easier to install the board
later, because you can hold it by the cooler. To install the CPU, line up the
notches in the side of the processor with the corresponding protrusions in the
socket and delicately place it in position. Some chips are also marked with a
gold triangle in one corner, which corresponds to a triangle marked on the
corner of the socket. If you’re installing an AMD processor, the pins will be
on the underside of the processor rather than on the motherboard. Once in
place, fold the socket cover back over the chip and lock it into place by
locking the lever arm back into its original position.
